I recently went on a short trip to Mexico with my brother Lars. He had been many times before and had friends that we could stay with. So I got to see more of the real Mexico than most tourists probably do. I hope to describe here in words and pictures some of the adventures I had. Below is a rough chronology. But I have grouped my pictures according to location and sometimes subject. So things will jump around a bit.

Oaxtepec and Tepoztlan

We spent our first night in Mexico at our friend Michelle's country house in Oaxtepec. The next day Michelle dropped us off at the market in the zocalo in Tepoztlan. Here is a vendor selling hats and beans. Here are some herbs. Candy & nuts. We saw a lot of stray dogs wandering around. This one looked better fed than most. We also saw a lot of women carrying babies in shawls wrapped around their shoulders. Michelle said they were called "rebozos" (I probably got that wrong, but that's what it sounded like she said) and that some of them could even sling a baby over their back in one. Lars bought mamey and chico sapotes at this stand. Here I am resting about half way through our shopping. I had an agua de sandia that was very refreshing. Lars asked me to take a picture of this guy frying fish, but I think the random crowd people I got turned out more interesting. Some nice pottery here, but the vendor had stepped away. You can see the bit of cardboard they had been sitting on. Next to the zocalo there was a church with a big wall surrounding the churchyard. Here is the entry. Somehow these guys don't look very biblical. Here is a view of the church from inside the yard. It had a strange white-washed ruined looking room on the side. It also had some very nice bougainvillas growing along the wall.


Taxco

From Oaxtepec we took a taxi to Cuernavaca from where we took a bus to Taxco. The bus we took was the "primera" class and had very comfortable seats. Unfortunately the bus ride was at night, and I could not see the views from the mountainside that would probably be very spectacular during the day. I did notice a lot of signs that read, "NO DEJE PIEDRAS SOBRE EL PAVIMENTO". Apparently when the local people want to protest the government they put rocks in the road. Michelle told us that the government tried to put in a golf resort in Tepoztlan, but the camposinos closed the roads with rocks and government gave up their golf idea.

We arrived in Taxco around 10:00 pm and took a taxi from the bus station to the zocalo where we walked around until we found a hotel. Here is a picture I took shortly after we arrived. Here are a couple of photos of my Lars in a patio at the hotel: Lars1 Lars2. We did a fair amount of walking around the town hiking up and down the steep streets. San Francisco has nothing on Taxco for steep streets (not to mention the altitude). Here are some street views:

Here is a video clip of one of our taxi rides. (Windows Media). Here is the same clip in shockwave.

We took a break at the Borda Cafe in the Zocalo. Lars is sitting at the table in the window. And here I am. We had a lunch at a restaurant that had a very nice view. Here is another panorama I took which shows the Santa Prisca church.


Mexico City

The bus we took from Taxco to Mexico City was "Pluss" class, which is even better than the primera class. The seats were like recliners and they showed a movie --New York Minute (dubbed into spanish of course). I wondered what the other passengers thought of Mary-Kate and Ashley's antics. It was kind of surreal to me. We arrived in Mexico City at the Tasquena bus station. If you take one of these busses, you should use the bathroom on the bus, because the bathroom in the bus station costs 3 pesos and has no seats on the toilets. From there we got on the subway toting the overnight bags we had taken to Taxco. Shortly after we got on the train two scruffy-looking, shirtless young men got on. One of them began addressing everyone with, "Buenos noches, damas y caballeros." I was thinking "Next he's going to tell us it's a stick-up and here I am with silver jewelry in my pockets that I bought in Taxco." But instead he explained that his companero was going to perform while he solicited donations. Anyway that was the gist of it. The other guy took a small rag that he carrying and dropped it flat on the train floor. It was filled with broken glass that he proceded to lie down and roll around on his back on. Meanwhile, the other guy went around with his cap, but he didn't get any donations. He stared at Lars for a long time, maybe he looked rich.

It took us a while to find Michelle's condo after we left the subway. It had been three years since Lars had been there. I was impressed he remembered his way around as well as he did. I used to take the subway in New York fairly often, and I could never tell which way was uptown or downtown when I came out.

Michelle's condo (interior) is located by one of the corners of Chapultepec Park and was convenient to the subway station. Across from her building is this tower that is the tallest building in Mexico City. Here is a view of a sunset from the window of the room Lars and I stayed in.

The next day we went to the mercado San Juan with Michelle and her two servants, senora Julia and her daughter, Ariana. This was a big market with vendors selling many different kinds of meats, fish and produce. Here are some chickens. But we were there to get fish for the veracruzano style fish that senora Julia would make for us. Here is price list from one of the fish stalls. Here is some of the meat. that "Los Coyotes" sell. I also found a vendor selling armadillo and rattlesnake meat. I had a friend in junior high school who killed an armadillo and tried to clean it because he wanted the shell. When he started cutting open that armadillo, -well it was one of the worst odors I have ever smelled in my whole life. I mean, this odor made me think I was going to puke out more guts than that 'dillo had. I can't imagine how the Mexican butchers stand it. But we were not having anything quite that exotic. I had some yogurt with pineapple, cactus, and celery in it. I think the celery was the strangest part.

From there we went to a mole vendor that sold moles that they made on site. They also sold various kinds of nuts. Nearby we saw a street food vendor making some chalupas with blue corn flour.

After lunch we went to the Rufino Tamayo Museum (Web site) which besides Tamayo features exhibits of contemporary art. We couldn't take pictures inside, but here is Lars standing near a sculpture outside.


Anthropology Museum, Mexico City

On my second day in Mexico City I had a mild altitude sickness -mostly shortness of breath, dizziness, and nausea. We had planned to visit the pyramids in Teotihuacan on this day, but decided to postpone that until the next day when hopefully I would be feeling better. So instead we visited the Castillo de Chapultepec (Web) and the Anthropology Museum. The Castillo now serves as a national history museum for Mexico. It's interesting to see history from a different point of view. What in the U.S. we call the Mexican-American War they call the North American Invasion. There was also quite a bit of interesting art in the Castillo including some Siqueiros murals.

From the Castillo we had a long walk to get to the anthropolgy museum and we could not go through the park. But it was worth it once we finally made it. When we entered the museum, they gave us brochures printed in French (maybe we looked French to them). Fortunately, Lars and I can both read French. Here are some pictures from our visit.

The second floor of the anthropology museum shows exhibits about the current inhabitants of Mexico and shows many examples of comtemporary folk art. My favorites are the small sculptures and masks covered in beads. Here are a couple of beaded jaguar masks. And here is a whole jaguar covered in beads. This display shows a devil-like mask and other accoutrements.


 

Turibus

On our last day in Mexico City we took the Turibus tour that starts at the Auditorio Nacional and lasts about two and half hours. Here are some things we saw along the way.

After the turibus Michelle drove us to Coyoacan where we visited the Frida Kahlo Museum. And then on to San Angel where we took a quick tour through the San Angel Inn, which is a very upscale restaurant. I felt very under-dressed.


Meals

I ate my first home-cooked Mexican meal in Oaxtepec and I had Chilaquiles. They were quite tasty. Lars had some meat balls. I had some more Chilaquiles with my breakfast in Taxco. Here is another view of breakfast including Lars'. We often had fruit as part of our breakfasts. Here are some Chico Sapotes . Here are some lunches: Lunch 1 (tacos I had in Taxco), Lunch 2 (chicken Lars had in Taxco), Lunch 3 (some blue-corn things filled with beans that Senora Julia made for us).

We went out for dinner one night in Mexico City to a restaurant called Ligaya. I had redsnapper with a chipotle sauce that was very good. Lars had some huitlecoche pasta. Here is the group of us after dinner. Senora Julia made a special Veracruzano style fish dish for one of our dinners and some chicken in a green mole for another. The mole was bought in shop where it was made and was very good -- not like any mole I had ever had before.

We took a walk to Condesa to go to bakery which took us through a sea of children that the Green Party had bussed in as part of a demonstration camped out in front of the Social Services building. They had a big banner that read, "Free Health Care for All Children! It's The Law". In the bakery you have to get a big metal platter and tongs and go around picking out what you want. They bag it up and give you a ticket that you take to the cashier. Outside the bakery Lars bought some huitlecoche quesadillas from a street vendor that came recommended.


 

Teotihuacan

We took the subway out to Indios Verdes where we caught a bus to Teotihuacan. Here are some of my photos.

There are a lot of people now at the pyramids who will come up to you and try to sell you various kinds of trinkets, etc. Some of them can get pretty pushy, especially if they see that you have bought something from someone else. If you do buy anything from them, you must haggle. They will always negotiate. Personally, I never cared for such negotiations.

On our last night in Mexico, Michelle gave a dinner party for us with a meal prepared by Senora Julia. The conversations gave my Spanish the most exercise of the whole trip. The party lasted until 2:00 am and we had to catch a 7:00 am flight. Lars thought the taxi was coming at 5:00 and was going to get up at 4:30 to pack. I woke him up at 4:30 and said, "I think you'll want to pack now. The taxi is here." He ended up leaving a couple of pairs of shoes, some toiletries, and reading glasses. But Michelle should be able to mail those to him. I left Mexico wanting to return again someday, maybe next year and see more.


 

 

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